Summary: a trip to do only in good weather. Pleasant scenery, lush, nothing dramatic. Decent food, acceptable and reasonably priced accommodation. Friendly staff. Lectures and movies. See the route map to the right. We did this in the reverse order: south to north. According to our guide on board, volcanic activities are on the rise since in 90s, causing more rain falls and advance of glaciers.
2/13. rain and sun off and on all day.


Our cheapest cabin1 is in the hallway on the first floor, next to the bathroom: convenient, but busy with other passengers. Bunk beds, curtains. Each has a locker for luggage, a lamp above pillow with an outlet plug. Water is portable. Had to beg for towel (which is supposed to be distributed the next morning). 2nd floor is the dinning room, more cabins, the bridge and emergency boats. 3rd floor is a pub with comfy sofas. Cargo is on the ground floor which we are denied access.
2/14 drizzle.
Chilean fjord looks very much like the Inside Passage of Alaska. Green, misty, many little waterfalls, some snowy hills, a couple of small ice fields.
The ship departed ~4:30. At around 6:00, we entered the Santa Maria Canal. Quite narrow.
8:00 breakfast. Busy, lines. Plenty food: scrambled egg (alternating days), ham, cheese, bread, jam, yogurt, cereal, milk, lipton tea bag, nestle instant coffee.
By now, all the cargo were on board. Some foul smelling lorries.
9:45 Captain speech. The ship is 125m long, 18.5m wide, 9951 ton. 229 passengers on board, only 1 Asian passport (Japan).
~11:00 documentary "Eden at the end of the world": animals in Patagonia. Not bad.



After dinner, "March of the Penguin" was shown in the dining room.
2/15 misty rain.
Arrived at Puerto Eden on Wellington Island, in the wee hour of morning, which was completely ignored by my sleep. It was an 1-hour stop for resupply and cargo change.
The scenery doesn't seem to change. With the low visibility, only the small islands, and beacons can be seen. A statue of Virgin Mary is on a little island at one point, where people toss coins to.
~11am, lecture on fauna, mostly on birds and where to see them.

~3pm: reached open ocean (Gulf Pena). Hoping to see Tonina whale and dolphin.l but didn't. Did see some seals or seal lions swimming. Expected 10-20 knots wind. wave 1.5-3.5m. Yes, took a motion sickness pill.
~4pm: movie "an Arctic Tale": story of a baby walrus and a baby polar bear.
~9:30pm: movie: Master of Commander. I slept instead.
2/16

11:15. Lecture on flora, and where to find them.. I learnt that :
moss makes PH of passing water slightly more acidic, from 7-7.5 to 6.5-6.8, and thus reduces bacteria. The local Indians mix Calafate roots with fat and mud to seal wooden boats. The common Mata Negra (Black Bush, Chilliotrichum diffusum) is food for guanaco, but not the introduced prevailing sheep. Devil's Strawberry (Gunnera Magellanica)'s red currant-like berries can cause lasitiv-diarreah. Indian Bread (Cyttaria Darwinii): apricot color golf ball size mushroom on beech tree. Edible for salad.


~6pm, talk on Puerto Montt and the surrounding areas to visit. Seems one needs at least 2 weeks here.
Rain started again!
2/17 RAIN!
3-4 am arrival at Puerto Montt in pouring rain. Only allowed to dock ~8am.
Notes