2008.2.22-26 Le Mans, 1 hour S.W. from Paris' Montparnasse station, the siege of the famous 24 hours car race. Otherwise, an ordinary French city at the confluence of rivers Sarthe and Huisne: Roman and Celtic heritage, charming old quarter and ugly suburban buildings, bakeries open at wee hours, fancy boutiques (e.g. Jacques Bellanger, jeweller Houillon, wrought-iron by Jean-François Jousse, stained glass at Atelier Avice), ubiquitous real estate agencies, and rather friendly and mixed people.

Vieux Man A Roman rampart (3rd century, but covered under later reinforcement) circles around the old town on a butte. Cobble stones, medieval alleys, half-timbered façades, renaissance mansions (e.g. Marie de Médicis stayed at 54 Grande Rue).

Royal imprints John the good was born in Le Mans, but the chateau was destroyed during the 100 year war.
City hall resides in the palace who saw the birth of Geoffrey Plantagenet and his son, Henry II.
A short tram ride east of town, next to river Huisne, Abbey of L'Epau was founded by Queen Bérengère, widow of Richard the Lion Heart, where she still rests. One of the room has the rare ceiling where the stones connect smoothly. The museum Berengere in the old town has nothing to do with the queen. Built over 200 years after her demise, it houses local art works.

Churches The cathedral St Julien, built between 11 and 15th century, claims to possess the finest ensemble of medieval stained glass windows in the world (together with Notre Dame of Chartres). 108 bays, plus two large rose windows, over three levels. Its window of ascension could be the oldest (11-12th) still standing in a religious premise. The concert of 47 angels (14th), painted over the vault of the chapel of virgin, depicts some long lost instruments. A 5000+ year old menhir sits against its wall, witnessed the baptize of Henry II in 1133 and the funeral of Berengaria in 1230. St Julian's tomb is now Notre Dame du Pre (closed when I went).
Police department housed in part of Notre Dame de la Couture, founded in late 6th century.

Today
The city center is the Republic Square. Surrounded by banks, and the 18th century Church of the Visitation.
Museum Tessé, once a bishop home with a small yet nice garden, now a fine arts museum. Next, is the large and noisy playground.
Epau Abbay now hosts European Jazz festival. Next door is the prairie farm and Maison de l'Eau, perfect for family weekend outing. Every June, racing car enthusiasts flood to the city.