Two weeks in Cusco, Peru. 6/14 - day 3. Tambomachay - Puca Pucara - Q'enco - Sacsayhuamán.

Taxi (s/15) to Tambomachay, a water worshiping site. The water from the underground stream here was believed to be purest in the Inca Empire. Bodies to be mummified were supposed to be cleansed with this water first.

Puca Pucara (red fort) is a few hundred meters down the road. The original function of this place is unknown. During war time, the Incas used it to house soldiers in many tambos (resting rooms). Much of the present site was a reconstruction, as most of the original rocks were looted for building materials throughout the centuries as in many other ruins.

A pleasant 1.5-hour hike slightly downhill in the fields with (finally) no tourists around, leads to Templo de la Luna. First 20 mins or so were along the road, passing a couple of houses selling chicha, marked by a red bow tied to a stick at the door. The temple is just a large boulder with a small cave. The solstice moon is supposed to shine directly into the small opening onto the altar inside. Some vague carvings of the Inca trilogy (condor, puma and serpent) can be found at the entrance.

About 1 km down the main road is the Qenco (zigzag), another huge limestone outcrop. Two zigzag channels were carved into the rock. Blood of llama was to poured down, and depending on which channel it took, Inca priest foretold the future. These two sites are not very interesting.

The last stop on the way down to Cusco is Sacsayhuamán, one of the most imposing Inca ruins I've visited. This stone seller has a nice description of the site. Most of the stones here are twice as tall as me. Fitted perfectly, in a massive scale. Imagin what it was alike, after being told that this is what's left (too heavy to be transported) after serving as a municipal stone quarry until 1935, you just cannot help to be in awe. Sacsayhuamán (speckled head) is believed to form the head of a puma, whose body is the city of Cusco (which means navel). During Inca Manco Capac II's rebellion against the Spanish in 1536, this is the famous battle site where 5000 troops were garrisoned to attack Cusco. Even though they had an upper hand at the beginning (Juan Pizarro died from a wound in an attempt to win the area), the battle ended with Manco Capac's retreat to Ollantaytambo.

We ended the day munching chiriuchu, the traditional food to be had on the eve of the Corpus Christi: A plate (s/10) ladened with pieces of chicken, stuffed (very salty) guinea pig, a chunk of sausage called salchicha, some seaweed called cochayuyo, a bit stinky fish roes, toasted corns, cheese, hot pepper, and a wedge of tasty yet greasy potato cake.

6:30pm, briefing at Andean Life office for the 4-day trek of the classic Inca Trail the next day. Met our guide Ali and his assistant Herbert. This is one of the many tour operators around Plaza de Armas. Total cost $330 + tip (~$40).

Two weeks in Cusco, Peru. 6/13 - day 2, Pisac.

Frequent buses (s/2.2) go to Pisac (elev. 3011m) in about an hour. The central square was already full of merchants when we arrived in the morning. It was a Tuesday, one of the market days (also Thursday and Sunday). After dishing down a hearty chicken soup in one of the stalls, we hiked up the ruin on a hill top, in about 2 hrs (elev. 3453m, a good workout for me to acclimatize). Bought Boleto Turistico: 10 days for s/70, valid at about 10 sites around Cusco and a couple of minor museums.

The view along the trail was pleasant, across the valley of Urubamba River, and patches of terraces. Was fun to watch the town square being filled up gradually with tourist buses. The ruin itself consists of a military compound with many barracks half way up on one gentle side, a few watch towers along the ridge, a religious complex at the top (including a sun temple) with water channels. Pisac ruin is said to be the largest standing Inca fortress.

Before heading back to Cusco, silly me bought an alpaca sweater at an inflated price.

Two weeks in Cusco, Peru. 6/12-26.

The trip had a portentous start. We had a minor incident at the airport parking. The alarm clock I bought two days before the trip died on the plane. The next day, my watch stopped ticking. My battery charger went missing after stayed in the hotel storage for half a day, and then my sunglasses. Luckily, as time progressed, things turned out more favorably, especially those unplanned.

Cusco, high in the Andes (about 3400m), was the Inca capital. Very colonial looking now. We used it as a base to explore the surrounding areas. Despite the fact that during my trip, I had vomited, had food poisoning, caught some flu virus (still coughing today), constantly being bugged by peddlers, bad air, garbage and urine on streets, I utterly enjoyed the trip: vibrant streets and markets, handsome colonial buildings, (almost) daily parades, colorful costumes, new (to me) flowers and fruits (my favorite is watery pepino and the disgusting looking yet fragrant cherimoya), rolling hills with ancient terraces (my favorite area is around Maras), massive ruins, and foremost, my traveling companion (who carried my bag and put up my shit).

6/12 - day 1. 7:30 am Monday. Arrived completely sleepy after an overnight layover at Lima airport (whose cleaning staff kept on moving chairs around, which disturbed any possible intention of getting some sleep). La Señora María Gaona from the hotel picked us up. After a welcome coca tea, and dumped our luggage, we decided to check the town out, and pay off the remaining of the organized trek of Inca Trail (independent travelers are no longer allowed on this trail). Had breakfast at the central plaza, lunched at Quinta Zarate further NE. of San Blas, overlooking the city, walked along the Inca walls, gave away some toys to the street kids. Got better oriented.

After a badly needed nap, we visited the small Museo de Arte Precolumbiano (s/16), housed in the renovated colonial mansion of Spanish count of Cabera. Both English and Spanish descriptions emphasizing the artistic creation of the people. Well organized, and open late (till 10pm?).

As the sun went down, some procession started on the Plaza de Armas.

2006.6.6. Central California - Day 7 of 7.

Mist Trail is a must. 1.5 miles, 1000 ft up to the top of Vernal Falls. (Another dryer 1.5 miles will get you on top of Nevada Falls.) Aptly named, the best attire for this hike is swimsuit: you'd be soaked. It was fun. Free falling Vernal Falls with its mighty volume sprays over a large distance, creating double rainbows and horizontal "rain". Emerald Pool doesn't exist now. The water is moving too fast.


On the way out, we stopped to walk close to the beautiful Bridalveil Falls. Bring a rain coat here. It's a very short walk.


I grossly underestimated the time to drive to the Reno airport. Do not take Hwy 49, as it winds through many little towns and the speed was often limited to 25mph. The plane was late by 2.5 hrs.

2006.6.5. Central California - Day 6 of 7.

We took the tour bus ($20) at 8:30am to Glacial Point in order to hike the Four Mile trail (in fact 4.8 miles) down to the valley (3200 ft drop). The best way if you are fit, would be hike up along the Four Mile Trail and hike down the Panorama Trail (5 miles) which connects to Mist Trail (3 miles) passing Nevada Falls and Vernal Falls, before reaching the valley floor (at Shuttle Bus stop 17, Happy Isle). Merced River was flooded. After reaching the valley floor, we crossed the Swinging Bridge and wade through water and mosquitoes for the better half of a mile before reaching our hotel. Gorgeous view at the bridge. After lunch, we walked to the lower Yosemite Falls. It's a wonderful short walk (10 minutes or less). Prepare to get wet. Lots of water. From there, we walked to the visitor center. The amphitheater was closed (power outage), so is the Ansel Adams Gallery. After a nap, we took a brief stroll in the Ahwahnee Hotel. Then we went to the seasonal Mirror Lake to see the sunset of Half Dome. That wasn't a good idea. The Lake has few clear views and festered with mosquitoes. The cliffs are too close to be photographed with their reflections.