This classic 44 mile
loop has been on my bucket list ever since I first laid eyes on Spider Meadow 9 summers ago. My original hiking buddy that time and I started at Phelps Creek TH around 4pm Thursday at 91F, back at Buck Creek TH ~11:30am Sunday at ~80F. I only walked out on the road to the junction (3/4 mile), and my partner walked to the car (2.3 mile, luckily was picked up by an earlier hiker on his way). Adding Phelps Basin (~1 mile RT) + Miner's Ridge Lookout (~2 miles RT) + Flower Dome (~1.5 mile RT) + secret camping spot (~1 mile RT), I totaled ~47 miles, ~10k feet gain + a few mosquito bites.
Day 1, 7/2, Thursday. I took a 6:30am bus from Portland to Seattle. Lunch, repack. We drove out of Seattle ~noon. Temperature rose as the day went on. At Stevens Pass, it was 88F. 15 minutes east, and the temperature rose to 97F. The last 9-10 miles of the road is rough, sometimes very rough. We arrived at the sweltering dusty parking lot just after 3:30pm. The car says 91F. No shade. There were about 6-7 cars already parked there. Thankfully the trail is in the woods. Quite a good view from the TH. We reached Spider Meadow in less than 2 hours.
It's a lovely place: lots of flowers (we were a bit too late for the peak this year), circle of towering peaks with water cascading down. Saw a few tents. We marched across the entire meadow. Half of the meadow was already in shade. Very pleasant walk. Took the side trail (overgrown at places) to Phelps Basin at ~7pm. Only 0.5 mile out, and NO one else. A different, smaller circle of peaks. Plenty of flowers here. Perfect camping.
Day 2, 7/3, Friday. Up to Spider Gap is steep and relentless. Air is still cool. Still some snow fields to cross. Put crampons on. All the way, very scenic. Taking photos as my excuse to rest. As you crest the pass - THE GAP, you'll be greeted with the most exhilarating view. Green Lyman Lakes below, Lyman Glacier (broken in two pieces), a meadowy valley below, and more snowy peaks ahead.
Coming down to the lake isn't straight forward. We should have hiked down the snowfield (since we have crampons), but were led stray by faint old mining trails. Scramble down the rock is somewhat dangerous. I don't know how I managed, was fear of falling multiple times. My buddy said he saw 3 separate shoes where he went down. The lakes are beautiful. Had a long snack break by the first lake: still has iceberg floating in it. North of here is easy trail in lush meadows with larch trees, and small ponds that breeds mosquitos. Need to come back in fall. Plenty choice campsites, if no mosquitos.
After Lower Lyman Lake, it's all in the woods, and going up. Noon has come and gone, temperature rising noticeably. There's a side trail that goes further NW of the lake for a waterfall, need to check it out next time.
One hour later, we emerged from the woods to a big meadow. Breezy, and nice creek full of monkey flowers. Refill water. More camp sites. Cross this flat meadow to the west, until Cloud Pass. A good camp site, now has a snow patch for water. Unsurpassed view to both sides, enough breeze to chase the flies away. We debated whether to camp here. Worried about the long miles ahead, I pushed onwards to Suiattle Pass. Took the hiker's shortcut to connect to PCT. This pass isn't obvious, nor grand views. We found a decent campsite just south of the pass, and decided to take a break. Filtered water, pitched the tent (due to the multitude of mosquitoes) and napped/rested for 2 good hours. It was too hot to hike.
At 6pm, we packed up and hiked south on PCT. Met a couple on PCT, consulted their detailed map (first time today that we saw anyone). They pitched their tent at the trail junction of PCT and Miner's Ridge. We turned to Miner's Ridge to Image Lake. The first half is in the woods, quite boring. Once on the ridge, it's a flower heaven. Not really a ridge, but a wide blooming slope. Sun was setting over Glacier Peak. Saw at least 2 other tents at Image Lake. The lake is just a big pond. A bit anti-climatic. Went for a short swim (cold) to cool down. Quite a bit of mosquitoes here. Too dark to take any photos.
Day 3, 7/4, Saturday I got up at 5am, and walked to the north side of Image Lake to take this photo. On my way back, saw a couple hiking out west (opposite direction as where we came in). After talking to them, I decided to head west to the lookout, about a mile away. The tower sits on a plateau with views both south and north. You can walk up. On my way back, a grouse tried to chase me away by fanning out his tail. He followed me for a good 5 minutes.
Packed and started hiking before 8am. Going along the same flowering slope is a delight. Then it was a chore going to Middle Ridge, as the temperature started to soar. Otherwise, it would be a nice hike. Good view back at Miner's Ridge. We didn't linger and pushed on to Buck Creek Pass. Saw an old couple hiking in opposite direction who gave us a tip on tent site. Two more parties of 1 hiking in the hot sun in opposite direction.
At the next trail junction (not named) 1/4 mile before Buck Creek Pass, we pitched the tent for another siesta, in a good camping area (but no water). Simply too hot to hike in the afternoon. Only this way, we saw more hikers going in the same direction as us. At about 6pm, we side tripped to Flower Dome. It's true to its name. The lupines were so dense, I could smell it.
We continued south, shortly, passed Buck Creek Pass, many sites and trails to the right (west), now all occupied. We looked for the secret site the old couple told us, and we found it, over a very steep trail 1 mile or so further south. Again, perfect, no one else. Lots of white paintbrushes.
Day 4, 7/5, Sunday. I was up again around 5:30am to take photos. Only saw one couple as we headed south. The trail followed Buck Creek, good view to what-else-but Buck Mountain. The trailhead is 9 miles from the pass, all downhill. Easy, but as the elevation dropped and sun rose higher, it was hot. Finally reach the big bridge by the trailhead. 11:20am. Met some hikers coming from Suiattle River trail. We refilled water, freshen up a bit. A young boy arrived, then, the couple from Suiattle Pass. Now it's walking on road. At the road junction, we left our pack by the road, and me, waiting. The rest walked up to fetch our cars. I didn't have to wait long. Thanks to the guy we met this morning. I was told that the parking lot was full.
Driving back was long and hot. Traffic jam in Index. Stop and go speed. Who would have guessed. I tried to look for a ride back to Portland via Craigslist. Contacted 3 leads, and finally confirmed one. The guy was traveling around in his converted van. He's maybe 30 years-old. Affable. He showed up later than our agreed time, and we walked in the hot sun to where he parked his car. Then we drove to U. District to pick up his other 2 passengers. The van was nicely done, has an LCD TV, a futon turned bed bolted down on the floor, a small fridge. The two "performance artists" we picked up are interesting looking. One carries a makeup, somewhat feminine. The other a burly guy with tattoo all over his body (at least whatever is exposed), big earrings and wears a pair of tight mesh shorts. They have loads of luggage. Took awhile to get the futon to sit up, and piled all the suit cases in. The two "artists" seemed quite nice and easy going though. We drove straight to Portland without further stop. Our driver smokes some electric substance from time to time to stay awake.
Wednesday, 7/29, at 7:30pm. Jackley is on tour for her book Clay Water Brick. She talked about how she started in the line of work of promoting entrepreneurship, and of course Kiva. She talked about 2 stories in her book with two different outcome of two small African entrepreneurs. Being a co-founder (with her ex-husband), Kiva remains a constant topic in tonight's discussion and questions. She talked about the partnership with field partners (the local lender), funding, and sustainability of any organization.
