4.11, Saturday.
Nikko 日光 north of Tokyo.
The bright red Shijo bridge announces the end of the town and start of the UNESCO's
world heritage complex, including Shinto shrine
Tosho Gu 日光東照宮 (1617, heavily influenced by Chinese temples) and
Futarasan Jinja 二荒山神社 (767), temple
Rinno Ji 輪王寺 (766). Lots of temples and shrines. Too showy. Too many colors. Tall trees provide shade and the only grace.
The scene of
hearing, speaking, seeing no evil is said to have originated here, one in a series of about 10 wood panels, depicting a cycle of birth, growth, and giving birth.
A 40 min bus ride
(¥1000) zigzags up to
Lake Chūzenji 中禅寺湖 and
Kengo Falls 華厳ノ滝. At above 500m altitude, some snow lingered. To better see the beautiful 97m waterfall, take the elevator down (
¥300, no trails). The lake is large, surrounded by hotels and swan boats.
The unassuming
JR station was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright.
(Reserved express train by Tobu 東武 Rail out of Asakusa, plus entrances to 3 shrines and temples is ¥5520. A foreign passport is required.)
4.12-14.
Tokyo 東京,
the east capital of 1866. Home to 8 million people. Oppressively crowded.
My first shot in the city are these two cardboard "home"s in one street tunnel near
Shibuya 渋谷 station, home to the busiest
scramble crossing and trendiest stores for teenagers. The world's busiest
Starbucks store, is one of the
12 within 8 minutes' walk from the station! Tried
Gonpachi 権八's charcoal grill one night. Casual but expensive
(maybe not by Japan's standard: ¥16320 for 2 people w/ 3 glasses of common drinks). The best is their grilled foie gras topped with strawberry slices
(one bite size piece for $13), and the cold beef appetizer. Both a perfect match of texture and flavor. Grilled ginko, bacon wrapped tomato or asparagus are pretty good. The rest is ordinary. Fun to watch the diner, the grills, and the lights outside.
The most fashionable district might be
Ginza 銀座. De Beers' curvy building and the cow like
Mikimoto store are the best looking. Most are dull.
All major brands have a branch here. We spent an hour napping on Panasonic's massage chairs in their showroom (nothing for sale). One model can adjust to individual body! I found a $160 mango boxed to go, and a small man walking on heels of 10+cm high. The Center Street Chuo Dori 中央道 is closed to motor traffic on Sunday afternoon, making it pleasant to stroll and window shop. My hosts took me to a tea house here, a cup of matcha 抹茶 and one candy, well worth ¥500 to get away from the street noise. For dinner, we went to
柿安三尺三寸箸 at Hibiya 日比谷 for buffet. Very happy with the choices
(¥2880, no seafood, not much meat, but a large selection of tasty vegetables), excellent service, expensive-looking yet simple decor.
Imperial Palace is just north of Ginza. At the time of my arrival, the front plaza was blocked, as the royal troupe was existing. Two rows of moat separate the bustling city noise and the enormous residence (3Km
2). The large open space between the rampart and the high rises is very agreeable.
The royal ground was mostly rebuilt after WWII. In the east garden, Kokyo Higashi Gyoen 皇居東御苑, (open to public), you can see the ruin of the old castle behind these cherry tress. Yet another moat and another layer of rampart inside. Azalea is coming into bloom, so is Japanese lily. Like any other Japanese gardens, it has a lovely fish pond, a tea house.
Across the street to the north is
Kitanomaru Park 北の丸公園, another section of the imperial palace open to public (almost no tourist here). Home to museum of science, of modern arts and crafts, and of military:
Nippon Budokan 武道館.
Not surprising, next to this is
Tasukuni Jinja 靖国神社, built by
Emperor Meiji 明治天皇 for those to sacrificed for the country (as the name suggested).
Now, it also infamously enshrines the WWII criminals, 14 of whom are class A. Well designed long and somber entrance: large bronze and steel toriis, rows of cherry, statues and memorials (including one to
Kamikaze pilots). Behind the main building, there's a small garden with a fish pond. I didn't visit the Yūshūkan museum 遊就館 nor any of the buildings. Lots of school children were here to pay their respect.
Not far, in Akasaka,
Hie Jinja is largely cement, buried behind modern high rises. The only interesting part is walking up the stairs through a series of
red torii. Surprise! I found yet another Seattle coffee store
Zoka (other than
Seattle Best,
Tully's, and almost 1000
Starbucks).
Meiji jingu 明治神宮 is my favorite site in Tokyo, shrine of emperor Meiji and his wife, built in 1920. Clean lined, spacious, serene, uncrowded (it was a Monday morning). Not far from Shibuya, just north of
Yoyoji Park 代々木公園 (a rather pleasant green space, devoid of tourists, only some joggers and homeless campers). Tall trees line up the long entry roads to the shrine, each guarded by a torii built with single logs (the biggest one was cypress donated by Taiwan). A rack of
wine barrels (each donated by a Burgandy winery), stands by the main SE entry way, facing a wall of donated sake barrels.
At
Hama-rikyu garden 浜離宮恩賜庭園 (¥300), south end of Tokyo, I saw a Ukon cherry tree with yellow blossoms, a guy doing impressive balancing act accompanied by a couple of musicians under a 300 year old tree. The
garden is next to the route of Sea Bus, fun to watch people parked in the middle of the canal and party.
Close by is the world's biggest fish market:
Tsuikiji wholesale market 築地市場. It also sells vegetables.
Next to the market, are the freshest sushi eateries, and numerous fast food stands (pun intended, see photo). Upon recommendation, I lined up for 2.5 hrs for Sushi Dai 寿司大, which accommodates only 12 skinny costumers.
Two set menus: ¥2500 for 7 pieces or ¥3900 for 10+1. Extra piece ¥400 ~ ¥600 each. Miso soup here is made of fish stock (watch out for bones), very tasty.
Asakusa 浅草 is the old town. Full of cheaper lodgings and stores. Its
popular temple Senso Ji, dedicated to Kannon or Guan Yin. People flock here including school kids by the hundreds, either for the thousands of stalls stocked with trinkets (kimonos pictures use Caucasian models!) or the power of Buddha.
Because of the movie
Tampopo, I requested ramen for dinner. My hosts treated me to the 3 on their top list. I like
Ivan Ramen アイバンラーメン the most (more expensive than the other 2), owned by a
CIA graduate. Homemade noodle, stock, and ice cream. Ivan counts cooking time to the second! He'll make you eat as soon as the bowl of soup noodle is handed to you. Every month, he tries a new recipe. His side dish, roasted tomato meshi, is simply delicious. A small neighborhood gem, like the other two, sits at most 12 (if packed tightly). They all know each other. This one is just a bit too far, but much easier for me to converse with a New Yorker. Ivan talked about the new noodle dish he was devising for the next month, and about asking his relatives to bring soap.
Saving tip: buy Suica & NEX at Narita airport for ¥3500, a saving of ¥1400 for NEX airport shuttle. Suica is an e-money card used for all subways and numerous stores. Return the unused Suica at where you bought it for ¥500 deposit + balance over ¥210.
4.15, Wednesday. 1st day of my week long JR pass: 7 hr train ride. On the way to
Nagano 長野, home to 1998 winter olympics, I might have caught a glimpse of Mt. Fuji. Nagano city is unimpressive. Mountains are a bit far.
Zenko Ji 善光寺, a 7th century temple, allegedly houses the first Buddha statue ever brought to Japan (from Korea). Last time it was seen by anyone was when the replica was made. Even the replica was only displayed once every 6-7 years. Next time in 2010. Since it's
Amida Buddha 阿彌陀佛, a visit here may gain access to his Western Paradise. Huge crowds, lots of turtles, and painfully slow bus
(¥100, 2Km).
The train ride from ~15 minutes north till ~45 minutes south of
Matsumoto 松本 is picturesque, through mountain tunnels, following a river, often dotted with houses or cherry blossoms.
Non smoking reserved seats from Matsumoto to Nagoya were sold out for the schedule I wanted, so I opted for the non reserved cars (non smoking). Not bad at all. I spent an hour standing between the compartments, so I can easily take photos from both the left and the right windows.
Matsumoto Jo 松本城 (¥600 including admission to the folklore museum next door, which I skipped), is considered the
2nd castles in Japan. 15 minutes walk from the JR station. A handsome 5 story tower built in 16th century, but looks like it was finished yesterday. Fun to walk inside (carrying your shoes in a plastic bag), dark, extremely steep stairs, low ceilings. New bamboo rails were installed for tourists, otherwise, very easy to slip and knock over the line of people behind you. Quite some locals enjoy the open space along the moat.
Arrived at
Matsunoki まつのき ryokan next to Okayama station close to 8pm, and they held my room (without advance payment). I'm happy with the packaged dinner
(¥1300), unlimited miso soup, rice and iced tea. Had I stayed one more day, I would get my clothes washed and line dried on the roof for free.
4.16, Thursday.
Okayama 岡山
After a filling breakfast
(¥600) I arrived soon after
Koraku-en 後楽園 opened (7:30am)
, (¥350), one of the
top 3 gardens in Japan.
It's small, but exquisite. The position of each plant, rock, path, seems to be carefully chosen. Especially lovely in early morning (the south door closer to the city center only opens at 9am). Saw only a few locals with season passes, and only a couple of tourists like me.
Himeji Jo 姫路城 (¥600), the
number one castle in Japan,
UNSECO listed. A 10+ minute walk from the JR station, once located the outer moat. Built in the 14th century. Added, restored throughout the ages. WWII bombing didn't do much damage. Now, freshly painted like it was built yesterday.
7 stories tall in the main keep, with a commanding view of the surroundings.
Rather large: without reading any description of the display inside the towers (armory, paintings, clan symbols), I carried my shoes for almost an hour. Long winding corridors with gun holes. The tiles at the end of the eaves have a family crest of the lords who contributed to the construction. More airy and spacious than Matsumoto Jo. Big ground, complex walk ways filled with little stones (to create noise).
The hourly train ride
(55 min, ¥1470, covered by JR pass) across the inner Seto sea over multiple islands is my most scenic ride in Japan. The view from
Seto bridge 瀬戸大橋 is more rewarding than my destination.
Takamatsu 高松 JR station is right next to the main ferry terminal. Modern expanse of park development.
From here, either walk 2Km or take the JR local line for 2 stops, to
Ritsurin park 栗林公園,
(¥400) the largest of the 23 gardens listed as national treasure. Built in the 17th century, 6 ponds, with a backdrop of a substantial hill. Quite nice.
Kurashiki 倉敷, 20 minutes west of Okayama on local train, has a well preserved Bikan historic district, a short walk from the JR station. (Kyoto's Gion neighborhood is equally lovely, but more crowded.) A willow lined canal (a couple of swan nesting under a bridge, fat carp swimming), traditional looking boutiques and restaurants, a cute ivy square (an old mill converted to
hotel and upscale shops) .
More pictures.
2009.4.17, Friday.
Hiroshima 広島.
Peace Memorial Park 平和記念公園, dotted with memorials, a peace bell (which you are encouraged to ring), one of the only (~10) standing structures after the bomb within 2Km.
UNESCO listed. The
Peace Memorial Museum 平和記念資料館 (¥50) is well laid out. Pictures and notes in both English and Japanese. 1st floor: city of Hiroshima before the bomb, its participation in various wars (including food ration tickets, old photos. It didn't shy away from its involvement in
Nanjing Massacre, ). 2nd floor: why atomic bomb, why Hiroshima. 3rd floor: after the bomb (electricity resumed to part of the city the very next day, and street cars began operation 3 days after bombing) and call for nuclear disarmament. It's a moving and necessary visit.
The next door, the
Memorial Hall for the Victims, is a architecture gem, designed by
Kenzo Tange: spiral ramp go underground counter clock wise, reaching the Hall of Remembrance, centered at a clock shaped memorial (fixed at 8:15), surrounded the panorama picture of the bombed city, made of 140k tiles (the estimated death by the end of 1945). Above ground, at the surface, sits amidst rubble over water, another sculpture symbolizing 8:15, echoing the one inside.
Mazda マツダ headquarter is 2 local stops east of Hiroshima, step out south of JR Mukainada station, you see its headquarter.
Mazda museum offers a 90 minute tour in English (M-F) at 1pm. Fun and informative. Reservation (082.252.5050) is required, but very easy. I was late by 10 minutes. They graciously sent a bus to pick me up. I got to see, with 2 other bus loads of people, various manufacture steps in video clips, displays of existing and future models (using hydrogen engine, bio-plastic), a detailed illustration of
Rotary Engine. Got to walk into the factory, watching the assembly line (1 minute 43 second for each car). Too bad, it was not running (shut off some Fridays, due to the economic slow down). Saw Mazda's own harbor, which can hold ships with capacity of 5000 cars. The highlight for race car buffs is
Mazda 787B, the 1st (and only?) to win
Le Mans 24 Hour.
Iwakuni 岩国 is 45 minutes by local train west of Hiroshima. A 20 minute slow bus ride
(¥240) drops you to the bank of the shrunken Nishiki river.
Kintai Bridge 錦帯橋, a wood footbridge with stone piers (now concrete core), rebuilt in 1953, is still beautiful with 5 arches. The original one lasted almost 300 years. Surprise, it fathered a
child in Everett, half an hour north from where I live!
Half way between Iwakuni and Hiroshima, is the ferry stop for
Miyajima 宮島.
(Every 15-20 minutes, for 10 minutes). The floating torii is simply mesmerizing. No wonder listed as the
top 3 views in Japan.
Itsukushima shrine 厳島神社 (
UNESCO listed) which the torii belongs, is on a holy island. In order for commoners to come and worship, the complex was built in water.
Freshly painted red, except for one hut. There was a performance with 3 actors heavily dressed accompanied by music. A picturesque 5 story pagoda (1407) . As the sun goes down, all tourists congregated next to the torii, which was getting brighter. The little island drifts back to its tranquility. People do live here, other than the deers.
The island is definitely worth a longer visit. There's a nice botanic garden close to the lift. Climbing
Mount Misen 弥山 is not a trivial matter (~70 minutes). A pleasant hike, with almost no one in sight. I had to turn back due to the late start.
On the way, I visited the 1200 year old
Daisyo In 大聖院. Many of the statues here wear red bibs! I found another set of
speak/see/hear no evil statuettes, sitting next to 500 Arhats. Here, you can even pick up an English brochure on Buddhism.
Dinner: my hosts (friends of a friend) cooked me dinner for the first night, and took me out to a sushi conveying belt for the second. A hot water tap and a speaker phone are fixed to each table. Fun to use them.
4.18, Saturday.
Onimichi 尾道 is a small hill side town close to Fukuyama.
A short walk from the JR station
(stop by the tourism office to pick up "I love Ominichi" brochure, with maps, pictures in English, French, Chinese, Korean) reaches a series of 25 small temples, one has a 3-story pagoda listed as national treasure, most of them built around 13-16th century. At the 5th one, I turned uphill along the shorter but steep
path of literature 文学のこみち: a library of literature, poems carved on rocks, statues and memorial plaques of writers, old houses of
Naoya Shiga 志賀直哉 (1883-1971) and Kenkichi Nakamura 中村憲吉 (1889-1934). It's possible to peak into the latter house. Quite a number of primary school groups. A ceremony was in progress at the museum of art. Many in kimonos and black ties, despite the heat. The view up there to the surrounding islands is disappointing. Too many sprawling constructions.
4.18-20 Kyoto is the most enjoyable city of my trip. Streets are laid out in rectangular grid, and all have names, finally!
21st afternoon: Northern Higashiyama 東山.
Heian Jingu 平安神宮, whose giant red torii standing a couple of blocks south. Quite nice, large open space, much more crowded and less trees, but older than Tokyo's Meiji Jingu.
There, following the canal (lined with cherry trees sans flowers),
we reached the impressive San-men (2 story main gate with 3 openings) of
Nanzen Ji 南禅寺, the head temple of
Rinzai school 臨済宗. Originated in 1290, destroyed and rebuilt many times. What stands here was built around 1600. Large forested ground, definitely good for meditation.
It's said one of the sub temples here serve fantastic lunch. Too bad, that I missed it. Also missed was the zen garden. Another interesting site here is the brick mossy
Suirokaku aqueduct (1890). Part of the Lake Biwa Canal. Still in use?
Path of philosopher 哲学の道 Tetsugaku no Michi is a quiet enjoyable 2Km walk runs from north Nanzenji to
Ginkaku ji 銀閣寺(the Silver Pavilion, close to Kyoto University), lined with cherry trees, devoid of commercial activities.
After a lovely dinner
at
平安の森京都 ($200 a night for two people including breakfast and dinner. Under some serious push, I finally tried the Japanese bath. Guests are seen wearing traditional pajamas walking about the premise, and when dining.
My only lazy morning of the trip. Happily gorged over the extensive and tasty breakfast buffet. Equally happily tried hundreds of pickled roots and vegetables, salted fish and seaweeds, and even bought a bit at
Nishiki-dori market 錦小路.
Back to sightseeing. First stop, the famous
Kinkaku ji 金閣寺.
UNESCO listed. Well, the Golden pagoda does look pretty, but not my favorite: the garden is too small, and too crowded.
Ryoan ji 龍安寺 (
tsukubai 蹲踞) is of interest to those who can read Kanji. 4 Chinese character radicals were carved around a square opening, forming: 吾, 唯, 足, 知 (I only know enough). More cherry trees, and a pond with some swans and turtles.
As the night falls, time to check out
Gion 祇園, and hope to catch a glimpse of a maiko or
geisha on her way to work. I saw one in yellow, and 20 minutes later, another one in black. They were not pretty, but definitely graceful. The following morning, I saw a few tourists dressed up like geisha. But something is lacking. This is an attractive neighborhood, traditional houses, exclusive restaurants (with closed doors).
I insisted on trying
okonomiyaki お好み焼き, a
Kansai 関西 specialty. Found a small establishment a couple of blocks north, near the canal. Fun to cook your own sitting on tatami.
Last morning in Kyoto:
Kiyomizu dera 清水寺 (
UNSECO listed) has a wonderful setting: set into Higashiyama 東山. The view from the main hall offers a fine view of the city. A bunch of school kids were walking between the two love stones outside Jishu Shrine, with eyes closed. None managed a head-on hit without aid. Behind the temple, I filled my water bottle with
kiyomizu (clear water), channeled from a waterfall. Cups with long ladle were provided inside an ultraviolet
sterilizer. There was a line, of course.
Ninen Zaka 二年板 and Sannen Zaka 三年板 links Kiyomizu temple to the huge
Ryozen Kannon war memorial. A district under historic preservation. Very pleasant to walk and peak into shop windows or stop for lunch.
Kodaiji (¥600) has a raked pebble garden with two cones. No extra railing, and much less people. This makes a wonderful stop. Stilt covered walkways over a small designer pond with carefully planted bushes and rocks. A pleasant bamboo grove. A large graveyard.
Saving tip: Kyoto is too big to cover by foot. Buy a day pass from any city bus for ¥500. It comes with a well designed and light weight route map, plus drawing and Japanese for points of interest. Each ride is ¥220.
4.20, Monday afternoon.
Nara 奈良 is ~40 minutes train ride south of Kyoto. I only had time to visit
Nara Park before catching Shinkansen back to Tokyo,
(from Kyoto, arrived at ~10pm). Not far from the JR station. Other than the crowded temples (with noisy school groups), it's very enjoyable: huge, open and undulating hills (muddy!) full of deers, a couple of ponds and bridges, a botanic garden, two museums, few people.
First sight: the remains of the
Heijo Palace 平城宮, (
UNESCO listed), the imperial palace of Japan (710-784 AD). This, and the muddy hills are my favorite here.
Behind that, the 5 story pagoda of
Kohfuku ji 興福寺 (
UNESCO listed). The head temple of the
Hossō school 法相宗. Destroyed and rebuilt many times. Some buildings have disappeared, as well as the main gate.
The great south gate of
Todai ji 東大寺 (
UNESCO listed) Nandaimon 南大門, still stands tall. Inside the niches on both side of the gate, 2 scary wooden giants were sculptured in 1203 by
Unkei 運慶 . They were original! (restored of course, but looks ancient.) This is head temple of the
Kegon school 華嚴宗. It has the world's largest wooden building (1/3 smaller than the original), housing the world's largest wooden Buddha. What we see now were built around 1600 and 1700. Here you also find hordes of tourists feeding the deers, including countless Japanese student groups. Every guide/teacher is talking at the same time.
Further up hill to the northwest are other smaller temples. View of the roofs and the city beyond is quite nice. To the east is a shrine, Tamukeyama Hachimangu with lots of stone lanterns lined up along the roads. Too bad, I missed the
Isuien Garden 依水園.
4.21, Tuesday. My flight is at 7pm. So I hopped on train again, after dumping my bags in a locker at Tokyo station. Hoping to see Mt Fuji, I headed towards Shizuoka, even though it was cloudy. 40 minutes later, at Atami 熱海, changed to Ito line for
Izu Peninsula 伊豆半島. If time permitted, I would have gone further south, for Jogasaki Coast. Only dared to go as far as
Ito 伊東, a hot spring town. The ride was not as scenic as I hoped: too many concrete slabs dotted the slopes. The train has ocean-side seats facing the window. The concept of user friendliness reaches a new level! Ito town is plain, except for the big wooden hotel Tokaikan built in 1928 (praised for its woodwork). Now the rain started!
Heading back to Tokyo, I stopped at
Yokohama 横浜 (20 minute southwest of Tokyo). The first Japanese port opened up to foreign trade. Finally a modern city scape worth a picture. The harbor area is modern and coherent. Home to the tallest building in Japan, an art museum, a small amusement with a Ferris wheel. Water ways, foot bridges, large greenery. Too bad, no time to check out the biggest China Town in Japan.
Armed with JR pass (¥28300 for a week or ¥45100 for 2 weeks, can only be bought abroad), I managed to zoom over many towns along Shikansen line. Should have allocated more time in Kyoto and Nara. My favorites sites:
4.11: Nikko 日光,
Ornamental cherry is unquestionably the national tree. It's everywhere, often by the hundreds at one spot. Too bad, I missed the peak by a week. The Japanese are so diligent in cleaning, I didn't even get to see many pedals on the ground. For up to date bloom condition and photos, check this sakura report. Japan Meteorology Agency also publishes a bloom forecast every year.
Timing is not as critical as the 3 days of mankai. (None of these 3 photos are mine.)
