Saturday, October 25, 2014

2014.10.25 Cloud Cap to Gnarl Ridge

10/25, cloudy - snowy - rainy. 8 of us arrived at the trailhead with some blue sky above us. Chilly. People are slow putting their boots, gaitors on, 30 minutes! By the time we headed out, dark clouds have moved in. Our hike leader Garth is very fast, so are Sam and Natalie (if not faster). I'm slightly better than the other 4. We arrived at the stone shelter of Cooper Spur in clouds. Fresh snow on ground. The shelter is stocked with some wood, a lantern, and enough room for 2-3 to lie down. Wind was hollowing, making flip sound of the tarp roof. We continued on Timberline Trail. As Shelly is visibly uncomfortable on the snow, even though someone put microspikes on her, as soon as there's a slope, we decided to turn back. Only 3 miles! Snow was getting a bit deep at parts. Gusty wind isn't helping. We came down Tilly Jane trail, snow free, and visited the big Tilly Jane cabin. A group came in with a key. You can reserve it 3 days in advance. First snow for me this year.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

2014.10.17-19 Havasu Falls to Colorado River

10/17 Friday, cloudy. I arrived at Phoenix Sky Harbor airport ~11pm the previous night, was picked up at 2:30am by the organizer. Got to the meeting spot at 2:45 as planned. 5 people were already there. As always with a large group (13 total), some were late, we didn't depart until 3:20am. In "my" car, are the old folks, other than a lady of my age, 3 others are older if not a decade older. The other 2 cars held kids in their 20s. A bathroom break, a long (6:30-7:30, not in the plan) breakfast at Seligman (the last town with regular services). Finally arrived at the trailhead (end of tribal road18, all paved), Hualapai Hilltop (elevation 5200') at 9am. Big parking lot next to a stock area where mules and their loads are gathered. Lots of cars already, lining both sides of the road. Long line in front of the toilet. Photos left and right. It's the first backpack trip for some of us. We started hiking down at 9:40. I was pretty tired by then, sitting in the middle seat for 5 hours. Good that we were slow.

Trail is easy, but long (10 mile). Sandy, lots of small rocks. Once a while, step aside for the packing animals. After the initial elevation drop to Hualapai Canyon, it's mostly flat, like walking in a river bed, until reaching the junction of Havasu Canyon (mile 6, an almost dried up spring shortly before that). Now more trees and sandy like on a beach, in a narrow canyon where Havasu Creek runs with a light blue-ish hue. Water is pretty clear. At mile 8 is Supai village. Beautiful setting. Wide. Lots of  little yellow daisy like flower and many giant morning glory like flower by the road with dust leaves. I don't see much agriculture here. I didn't see many local people, certainly no one walked. Plenty horses and mules, dogs too. Contrary to what I read online, people seem pretty friendly. Some animals are visibly starving,  but that's not the norm. At the tourist office, all visitors have to register. We have a group reservation of up to 15 people. Each one of us paid $81.40 ($35 entrance + $5 environment fee + $17/night + 10% tax) for a red ribbon (dates, name of the person who reserved, party size) on our wrists. They take credit cards, cash if not big bills. We checked in at ~1:20 pm. There's a cafe next door (opens 8-6, last order at 5:45, no backpack inside, flush toilet). If you are in town at non business hours, there's a water faucet, 2 toilets next to a small grocery store, or you can look for a proper toilet in the modern looking elementary school.

After the village, the canyon narrow again. Pretty soon, the little creek turns to the first waterfall, or rather the lower Navajo Falls. Walk to the big flat rock right next to the lip of the falling water, perfect for lunch. Continue a bit further, you'll get the view of the upper falls (don't walk down, no view). The sandy route continues, until you hear thunder. There, is the most stunning waterfall plunging to a blue pool, cascading down some terraces. I changed to swimsuit and dived in. Chilly. But once you are in the water, it's not bad. It took considerable time to change clothes without any cover (I used a big towel). Soon after is the mile long camping area, where you can pitch a tent anywhere,  even next to the creek (a big nono where I'm from). Spring water out of a faucet for drinking, a few compost toilet houses with plenty toilet paper, wood chips for odor (yes, it's clean and doesn't smell bad at all), a night light. However so many groups, no place for food waste and washing water, once awhile you get a whiff of unpleasant smell (food mixed with urine). At the entrance of the camping area, there's the depot for luggage (hauled in and out by mules) and two big garbage cans. Our next door is an organized group led by a studious young lady. She brought huge coolers and so much food, that she gave us pasta for the first night, and veggie burrito for the second! After setting up the tents, most of us walked to the end of the camping area, and down to Mooney Falls. You need both hands to go down. Was fun.

10/18 Saturday, partly sunny. 4 of us from the same car decided to head to Colorado River. We left at about 6:30am. Already enough light. Still we took flashlight, as we didn't know when we'd be able to make it back. Even though two of us had been here before, none walked pastes Beaver Falls, 2-3 miles down. We were told that we had to ford the creek 8 times, and water can be as high as our waist. After Mooney Falls, it was mostly flat. At the first couple of crossings, we changed shoes. Soon, putting on/off the boots became too much trouble. Wearing a pair of socks in water shoes is a good idea. Our progress is slow: taking too many photos. The creek is very pretty, as well as where it is: the canyon with straight walls. Some parts are wide, overgrown with blackberry type of bushes. At mile 3?, Beaver Falls is the prettiest of the endless water terraces: bigger and higher. We walked down to the water, and spent at least half an hour there. A bit further down is a deep blue pool, where 3 young men were diving. It took them awhile just to climb back on: a thick rope? chain? was permanently fastened to the cliff to aid them up.

Similar scenery continues. Less frequent creek crossing. All at most knee deep. We saw a family of sheep (we were told later they are not goats). I didn't see the only male with big horns, captured by Neil's camera. The scenery turns to more dramatic as we were close to Colorado Rive: the wall deepens, shinier. The sleepy creek at the camping area is now a rushing force. The three boys are returning from the river. They are fast. We met a group led by 3 guides, some of them were in their 60s, coming in from the river.
There's a visible line between the clear blue Havasu Creek, and the brown silty Colorado River. 3 rafts were moored there, as well as 2 boats. Lunch, nap, enough flat rock to rest and admire the view.

On the way back, we met the same group and no one else, not the sheep either. Less photos, so faster. We left at 1:10, and arrived at Mooney Falls at 4pm. I went in fully clothed. Good to wash away all the sand, mud and sweat. Yes, a bit chilly, but only when you go in. The force of the falls is too great to get under the falls. The kids of our group applauded as we came back one by one all wet. A heated discussion as whether to walk up or take the helicopter tomorrow (first come first server, 10-2pm, locals have priority). We all decided to get up at 6am.

Less cloudy. Not a bad starry sky, only a long strip, cut on both sides by the canyon walls.

10/19, Sunday, sunny. When we were in the village (~8am), already about a dozen lined up outside of the helicopter pad. Not a lot of shade once you are out of the narrow canyon (the last ~4 miles). Good that I filled up my water bottles, was able to give Debbie some. She only brought 1 litre of water for the 10 mile hike! Another boy later complained that he ran out of water. But we didn't see him (in the last group of 3) until 2pm in Seligman, where we waited in the Lilo restaurant. There's drink for sale at the parking lot. All 13 of us walked up. The possibility of walking up in the afternoon sun is enough of the deterrence of waiting for a helicopter ride.

Driving back was uneventful, we all fell asleep at some time. As we drove closer to Phoenix, the clouds got larger and darker. I saw Humphrey Peak, the tallest mountain in Arizona. Still a bit snow on the top. We stopped at Sunset Point rest area (I-17 exit 252) in time for sunset shots. Perfect dark red clouds, lightening occasionally, no rain yet. By the time we were in Phoenix, it was pouring. I was dropped off at the airport around 7:30. My flight was at 10:50pm - the very last flight. The security here is more strict, my peanut butter jar was deemed dangerous. I arrived at PDX ~1:30am Monday. Still a long way home, and I have an 8am meeting every Monday: work sucks!

Monday, October 13, 2014

2014.10.11. Augspurger Trail work with WTA

10/11. Saturday. Cloudy, light rain at times. PROJECT: Our goal is to restore the section of trail that lies in the saddle between Augspurger Mt. and Dog Mountain. It was extremely brushy and difficult to find in places.

After meeting at Home Valley Grocery at 8am, 2 trucks, 1 4x4 SUV, ( 2 belong to US Forest Service) drove 7 volunteers (Henry, Gail, Ralph, Chad, Zack, Anna, me) and 2 USFS employees (Johnathan and Rachel) on a rough powerline access road. With one wrong turn, we didn't find the trail until 10am. Forest Service brought 2 power brushers, which we have to stay far behind, so not to be hit by the debris. We were not allowed to use them. We have loppers, corona saws, and something else I don't know the name. Henry is the "blue hat" (trail work lead of WTA) today. He and I picked some mushrooms, but he's better prepared. He brings a large mesh bag. The work finished around 2:30pm, and we walked down the trail. As usual, WTA has soda and cookies in Henry's truck - not the healthy kind. Gail brought lemon cheese cake she made yesterday, so no one bothered with the oreo cookies WTA offers. Everyone of us also received a day pass for USFS, because this volunteer party is partnered with USFS. Ralph told us about the trail skill college every spring. I shall check it out next year.

My arms and back is sore the next day.

Thursday, October 09, 2014

2014.10.9. Jennifer Pharr Davis talks at Next Adventure

10/9 Thursday, 7pm. A presentation hosted at Next Adventure Paddle Sports Center.

In 2011, Pacific Crest Trail and two-time Appalachian Trail thru-hiker Jennifer Pharr Davis wanted to test her limits. With the support of her husband Brew and a dedicated group of volunteers dubbed the "Pit Crew," Jen hiked, stumbled, and sometimes crawled the 2,181 mile A.T. in 46 days (an average of 47 miles per day), becoming the fastest person to hike the trail.

Jennifer is over 6' tall, very lean, a great speaker. She talked about her first AT hike at age 21 without any backpacking experience (took 5 months), her 2nd AT hike 12 days after her marriage, and of course her 3rd record setting hike. She emphasized the pains she went through, the calling in her stomach,  her husband's unwavering support. She also showed two short slideshows, one on all other hikes she did, one on this AT hike. She and her husband are amicable, great organizers of the photo arrangements and her speech. Many through hikers in the audience.

Next door donated snacks, a local brewery donated 2 kegs (I already had a beer coming, so didn't try that). Two of them also gave away many prizes, including 4 headlamps, 2 day packs, some Sawyer Squeeze, wool socks. Coming far from the venue, I received a consolation prize of a Zamberlan stuff sack. They also have 3 books to sell on the spot, which she'll sign.

Sunday, October 05, 2014

2014.10.3-5 Climb Middle Sister

A surprisingly warm and sunny October weekend. A perfect hike with 3 total strangers in Three Sisters wilderness.

Friday. I left home at 8am, was picked up at Sunset TC. Ed, Mike, me met at Sudhir's home near Bridgeport. Sudhir drove us towards Pole Creek TH for Camp Lake. On the way, we stopped at a rest area for toilet before Detroit Lake, 2 stops in Sisters so Sudhir can buy fuel and subway sandwich. TH has 3 small parking areas. All burned trees. Dry and hot. We didn't start hiking until 1pm.

The first hour or more is in burned area. Hot under the sun. Can see the 2 Sisters through charred branches. Dusty until you get to live trees. Most Ponderosa. More or less flat. Quite some horse dropping. Lupine are the main ground cover and one plant with furry seeds. Sparse. Finding a place for bio break is not easy during almost the entire trail. There are a couple of trail junctions (from mile 1.4 to 2.0 is Green Lake trail). All well marked. More posts in and out of Pole Creek burn zone, where no camping or off trail walk is allowed. We passed Soap creek then Squaw creek. After Squaw crossing, I took off to see Demaris Lake. Small shallow green. Nice lake. Only 1 mile down hill. View of South Sister and Broken Top. After I came back, I was only able to catch up Sudhir, as he's slow. As I emerged from the forest, better view started. Small grass, dirt flats (were probably dried up ponds). A bit more rocky.

Ed and Mike found a wonderful site east of the lake, view of the mountains. Above us, another smaller site, has more trees for shelter. Sun moved away from my camp at 5:40pm, and it got a bit chilly quickly, but never was very cold. Ed and Sudhir cooked their Mountain House, Mike apparently lives on snack bars. I don't think he owns a stove. We chatted until 9pm, standing. Sudhir has a lot of fun stories, when he was a Scott Master during his son's teenage years. Moon was too bright for the night sky, about 3/4 full. 45F.

Saturday. I got up before 7. Took some photos of sunrise. Better color. The lake is like a mirror. I read waiting for others to get up. The sun didn't shine on our tent until 8:30. Not too cold. We started towards Middle Sister around 9:20. After the visible trail up the rusty iron slope at the west end of the lake, we lost the trail. Took a while to come out of the woods. Just pick any rock and walk up. Initially gentler slope, it gets steeper quickly. Piled black grey rocks on ashy and slippery slope. Sudhir said goodbye and went to check out the 2 blue lakes which we could see by then. The rest of us continued till 8800' when Ed decided to head down. Surprisingly, at this elevation, you can still find a white bark pine here and there. It was about 11:30am. I continued. Soon Mike followed. The slope gets somewhat more difficult until the last stretch, which was easy. By the time you can see the red summit, you are almost there. At 10047 feet, it's the lowest of the three Sisters. South Sister is the highest at 10358', but the easiest to summit. At the top, 360° view: Jefferson, Hood, Rainier (maybe it was Adams?) to the north, South Sister dominates the south. The whole forest, burned and not. Saw at least 3 very big lakes to the southwest at a distance. Little blue or green ponds dotted the landscape. There's one bright red slope to the west. Not sure what that is. Just enough flat space to take a photo of 3 guys who arrived after us. 1:30pm. Heading down isn't any easier.

I decided to check out the 2 blue lakes seen from the climb. Not bad. There appears to have space for camping by the lake shore, however, it's rather steep to get down to the water level. Happy to be back at the camp, still had enough sun to wash up, and sun my socks. Thin clouds form above us, added a bit color to the setting sun. Seems warmer today. Again, we chatted till 9pm standing up. Sudhir had more stories to tell.

Sunday. Packing up and depart. Uneventful. We left ~9:45am. A snack stop at Sisters. I got home ~5pm.

Direction for Pole Creek trailhead (@5300'): I-5 exit 253 (near Salem) for Highway 22 for 80 miles. Continue on Highway 20 for 26 miles to west end of Sisters. Drive West (right) on Highway 242 for ~1.5 miles. Drive South (left) on the Pole Creek road for 11 miles - most good gravel.