Sunday, December 14, 2014

2014.12.14. Cascade Head

Beautiful sunny day after the fog was burnt off. Very windy. Saw a falcon (?) at the parking lot, a large herd of elk, and some sprouts of whales. About 5.4 miles RT (~1700') in the Cascade Head Nature Conservency. No dogs. No camping. The trail is also closed in Jan for endangered Oregon Silverspots butterfly. From the lower trailhead by the river, you started on a long boardwalk next to a swampy creek, then a road and some private properties, before going into the woods. Nice old growth, and big ferns. Soon emerge to the grassy headland, with some big piles of animal droppings (cow like). Views begin here, to the coast (lines of waves), <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salmon_River_(Lincoln_County,_Oregon)">Salmon River</a> estuary (flat sandy beach, access via Roads End State Recreation site?), and the town of Lincoln City. As you switch back up the slope, you'll see Devil's Lake south of Lincoln City, seems like 2 big bodies of water instead of one. There's a survey marker at the summit. 3 of us continued up to the next summit, not much from here. Have to come back here in mid May to mid June to look for the rare Cascade Head Catchfly and Oregon Checker Mallow.

Direction: 101 north of Lincoln City, turn west on Three Rocks Road. At 2 miles, take the left fork and park in Knight Park. 1 pivy at the parking lot. For an easier hike, can park at the upper trailhead.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

2014.12.13. The Good, The Bad, and The Muddy -- a hike

Saturday, cloudy, rain at times, sunny when we finished. 10 people went to Angel's Rest to Devil's Rest lollipop loop. Very muddy indeed, especially on the way down, after the rain. We went from Angel's Rest trailhead (right off I-84 exit 28), passing Coopey Falls, Boyscott camp (very big, in the woods, right after cross a creek), Wahkeena Spring (100m before the junction of Wahkeena Trail), continued right & up to Devil's Rest, which is just two rock piles, no view. Along the way, a couple of viewpoints now completely obscured by rain and cloud. Then we took a different way down (the lollipop). Finally the weather cleared up, and we had a great view at Angel's Rest, with a small crowd. From here, it's ~2 miles down. Drove to Bridal Veil Falls TH for bathroom (2 stalls each, with flushing toilet, and soap by the sink).

Sunday, December 07, 2014

2014.12.7. Silver Falls state park

Sunday, cloudy. 9 of us walked the Ten Falls Loop. About 7 miles, minimum elevation gain. Part of the trail was ribboned off, in case of slippery ground (when it's cold, the water blown off of the falls can make the ground icy). We walked over the first ribbon at South Falls, after much debate among ourselves. A minute later, we encountered a ranger. Fortunately he okayed our action. This is a delightful and easy loop. South Falls, Middle North Falls and North Falls, you can walk behind the curtain of water. Double Falls is small, but quite elegant. The park itself has some good timber lodges, now in holiday decoration.

We had a late lunch at Oregon Garden. I didn't care for the food, but a Frank Lloyd Wright's building Gordon House, which was painstakingly moved from Wilsonville to this location.

Saturday, December 06, 2014

2014.12.6. Cape Horn loop

Saturday. Despite the rain, 9 people showed up for Cape Horn loop hike. 7 miles, 1350'. Barely enough elevation gain to keep me warm, and the weather isn't cold. All elevation gain was done in the first mile. The ridge had a lot of ice cubes, as low as Phoca viewpoint (a round stone structure). Quite curious. Looks like those in your glass of water. Maybe it was freezing a few days ago, instead of thawed by warmer air, it decided to fracture. The top of Salmon Falls were icicles.

The lower half (cross highway) is closed from February to July for a pair of peregrin falcons. Of course we didn't see any falcon. Did see a bald eagle flying on the river. We met an old gentleman (Jim?) who talked us to take a side (lower, and according to him, the original trail) trial closer to the river. The view is great. At some point, we were standing on top of the railway tunnel, right by water. Cape Horn Falls is mossy, without ice. The talus field next to it was very green (with moss).

This trail crosses roads a few times and ends on Cape Horn Road (walk up to trailhead), so, people's home and goats on their pasture. Drizzle most of the time, saw brief moments of sunshine. Clouds moved in and out, adding to the beauty.

Direction: SR 14 east to milepost 26.4 (about 20 miles east of the I-205 bridge). Left onto Salmon Falls Road. Parking lot right there, with privy.

Tuesday, December 02, 2014

2014.12.2 Simone Moro speaks at North Face

The North Face athlete Simone Moro gave a talk today at Portland North Face store. The celebrated Italian alpinist is renowned for his daring winter ascents. He spoke to his experiences in the mountains, discuss his new book "The Call of the Ice: Climbing 8000m Peaks in Winter", and presented a couple of video clips and a screening of Cory Richards' film "COLD".

Over Q&A, he talked about his safety philosophy (he is 47 years old), and his helicopter school project in San Diego (about to start), to train Nepalese for alpine landing and rescue. Very noble and useful idea. He already has a commercial pilot license, and his brother's family has moved here. Why US, instead of his homeland? He said getting a commercial pilot license costs half in US than in Europe, and it takes less time. Why CA, especially at an expensive city at sea level? I don't know.

Thursday, November 27, 2014

2014.11.27. Multnomah-Wahkeena loop hike

Thanksgiving day. Rain at times. My sister, her husband and I hiked this traditional all season hike Multnomah-Wahkeena loop. 5 miles, 1600' gain. The trail above Benson Bridge was ribboned off. We went anyway. At Wahkeena TH, there's a construction going on. The link between the two trailhead was closed. We had to walk on the narrow road. Not the best idea. Quite some people came on this raining morning. Most of them didn't go over the ribbon. My sister wore my waterproof hiking boots and my rain coat, her husband put on the new rain jacket. We were fine with the weather, but they complained about their legs after a mile in. We all enjoyed the waterfalls (5 major ones and countless small cascades) and the company.

Before returning home, we joined the shopping crowd for the ever earlier Black Friday sale. The checkout lines are huge, so had to be on our legs more. Did find some good bargain.

Tuesday, November 25, 2014

2014.11.25. Santaland Dianries at PCS

Portland Center Stage puts a one man show of SantaLand Diaries, by David Sedaris. Funny (satiric), and well acted. The protagonist works as an elf leading (or distracting) kids (or rather their parents) to take photos with Santas in Macy's. Exaggerated accounts of the interview progress, the training, his fellow elves, managers.

Sunday, November 23, 2014

2014.11.23. Trans-Siberia at Moda

Sunday. I won 2 tickets at work for a Christmas theme rock concert by Trans-Siberia. It was okay. I like the narrator the most, the laser is quite good. Otherwise too loud, and repetitive. The performers are energetic, love their acts and looks. Maybe I'm getting too old. Was hoping to leave at the intermission, which there wasn't one.

Wednesday, November 19, 2014

2014.11.16. Gearhart and the coast

Sunday. Sunny and warm on the beach. Freezing in Portland. My hike yesterday (Saturday) was canceled (I couldn't understand why. The excuse was high wind.) It was a beautiful day too.

Gearhart is a small unrushed beach communities almost without tourist, just north of Hwy-26. It has the oldest (1891) golf course west of Mississippi. Summer vacation home of one of the most famous Portland sons James Beard, where he was accustomed to fresh seafood and berries. The little two bedroom 1 bath house changed hand in April 2012 for $327,500. We had blackberry tart at Pacific Bakery. Probably being low season, not too many options. Quite pricy: croissant is $3. My tart could be yesterday's leftover: the dough was not flaky. The cafe is little and cozy, and the waitress was friendly. Julie asked her which house was James Beard's, and she consulted someone and came with an answer. So, we followed her direction. I took a photo of a house which I thought could be it.

Then, we walked back and forth on the wide and long (18 miles long) beach, where a few trucks drove on. Saw a bald eagle fighting with a few gulls for a dead crab. So far, all according to the plan. Since only I showed up at the meeting place on this crisp morning, Julie decided to take me on a tour of Cannon Beach. She showed me the best place to park (Chapman Point) for great beach access, views and swings!, and her favorite hotels (White Heron and Stephanie Inn for different purposes).

We then drove south to Neahkahnie Mountain trailhead. Instead of going east and up the hill, we walked west and down to Devil's Caldron and Treasure Cove in Oswald West state park. You can see me walking toward a precipice on both sides for a better view of Devil's Caldron (a blowing hole), the trail to the right (north).

The trail to the left (south) goes to Treasure Cove. There's a faint trail going steeply up to the hill south of Treasure Cover. Near the top, you can see the town of Manzanita. The very top has too many trees blocking the view to the south. The good thing is that there's ground just with big enough for 1 tent, almost flat, with great view to the north and west.

I'd prefer to stay for the sunset. But Julie was keen on driving back with enough day light. Of course, the night fell on our way home, so was the temperature (dropped below freezing).

Saturday, November 08, 2014

2014.11.8. Larch Mountain from Multnomah Falls

Saturday, fog, then sunny. 7 of us started at Multnomah Falls lodge (only 30 minutes from Gateway P&R) ~9 am for Larch Mountain. 14 miles, 4000' gain, but not steep. It was still early: not many people. It would be a zoo when we returned ~4 pm. Paved switch-backs until the top of Multnomah Falls, ~1 mile. The trail follows Multnomah Creek, passing a couple of waterfalls and cascades, very scenic. The autumn leaves add much color. Passed trail junction to Wahkeena Trail (turn right to loop to Wahkeena Falls), Multnomah Basin Rd, then Franklin Ridge Trail (turn left to Oneonta Falls, Horsetail Falls) at mile 5 (?). Eventually, you'll see picnic tables and a giant empty parking lot. Turn left for steps to Sherrard Point.

The view at Sherrard Point is outstanding. 360°. To the north: St Helen, Rainier, Adams. To the south: Hood (22 miles away) and Jefferson are clear. This is more pleasant now, because the road is closed half way down. So only hikers and bikers come this far. A long lunch break. Warm enough to walk bare foot. My 2nd time here this year. Last time I saw nothing: rain.

Monday, November 03, 2014

2014.11.1-2 Backpack seminar weekend

Trail Club of Oregon hosts a backpack seminar weekend at Nesika Lodge up the Larch Mountain rd. Seems like this is an annual event to introduce people to backpack, and to recruit more members. Linda, the organizer and her crew did an excellent job, attracting younger members. When I hiked up here this spring with the club, everyone else was in their 60s or older. This time more people in my age group or younger. Even I considered joining. My deterring factor is that most outings, including this one, doesn't provide carpool arrangement.

Saturday. Foggy. Lisa picked Julie F from her home, me and Carrie at Gateway at 7:45. She drove to the lodge, because she was carrying a box of her newly self-published hike books. A group hiked up from Multnomah Lodge from 8am. I'd rather hike up, but needed a ride to the TH. Quite a few miles on gravel. We claimed our bunks, visited the open outhouse, then congregated in the main lodge. There're two dorm buildings. The 2nd floor of the women's dorm is coed for couples. The main lodge is quite beautiful and airy, and with 2 flushing toilets and shower. All these 3 uses wood stove. There also are a couple of shacks.

Linda gave a talk before lunch, introducing the club and its history, as well as what's to be raffled off. Each one of us was given 2 tickets, one for 2 backpacks (donated by Six Moon and Gossamer), and one for little things. Then, Lisa was given 20 minutes to pitch her book, without her prior knowledge (she sold all that she brought). Then Jeff Lawton of Trail Keeper of Oregon talked briefly the 4 loop hikes close to Portland and the logistics: Wonderland Trail around Rainier (93 miles - Jeff recommends to start at Sunrise), Loowit Trail around St Helen (30 miles, start at June Lake), Timberland Trail around Hood (41 miles, start at Timberline Lodge), Round the Mountain Trail around Adams. After a lunch of soup, sandwich, salad, apple sausage, and Costco cookies, the main program began at 13:30, and I started to doze off.

Whitney Laruffa, president of American Long Distance Hiking Association - west talked about Chinook Trail, a newly linked route along the Columbia Gorge from Silver Star in WA east to The Dalles and then west to Angel's Rest. Shane Von Kemp, speaking about the newly proposed Desert Trail in eastern Oregon. He had to cache water in 8 different spots, and at one stretch had to swim 3 times to in Owyhee canyon. After an early (5pm) dinner of pasta, more salad and sausage, Erin Saver talked for 2 hours about her last AT trip. Her photos are very well done. Afterwards, she answered question candidly, including how to relieve yourself in the tent. We even had an intermission for Costco pie and just baked brownies. The power was scheduled to turn off at 22:00. Enough time to talk with fellow hikers. Notably Mary from Ashland. Linda was consulting her about Grand Enchantment Trail in New Mexico, where she and her husband are leading a group next spring.

Sunday. I got up before 6 to use the bathroom. There were already plenty people in the kitchen. Power was turned on. Breakfast is toast, fruit salad, more sausage and some mushroom she picked the previous day. Jeff Lawton gave a 30 minute talk about backpack trails in the Portland area. Then Linda lead a short loop hike around the lodge in the rain. Julie didn't feel well and Tim led her back to the lodge soon after we started. Turns out she might have been "poisoned" by the wood stove in the dorm. Carrie and I moved to upstairs, where the stove wasn't in use. I hesitated to walk out into the rain, but very glad I did. It was refreshing. Linda knows the area like the back of her hand. She showed us Dr. Franklin's mostly disappeared home site and various connecting trails. She also picked some oyster mushrooms, which she calls Angel Wing. I carried a grocery bag hoping for chanterelles, but found none. Maybe too high. Vine maples are quite colorful now. At noon, lunch of leftovers, and the rest was put in ziplock bag for everyone to take home.

Saturday, October 25, 2014

2014.10.25 Cloud Cap to Gnarl Ridge

10/25, cloudy - snowy - rainy. 8 of us arrived at the trailhead with some blue sky above us. Chilly. People are slow putting their boots, gaitors on, 30 minutes! By the time we headed out, dark clouds have moved in. Our hike leader Garth is very fast, so are Sam and Natalie (if not faster). I'm slightly better than the other 4. We arrived at the stone shelter of Cooper Spur in clouds. Fresh snow on ground. The shelter is stocked with some wood, a lantern, and enough room for 2-3 to lie down. Wind was hollowing, making flip sound of the tarp roof. We continued on Timberline Trail. As Shelly is visibly uncomfortable on the snow, even though someone put microspikes on her, as soon as there's a slope, we decided to turn back. Only 3 miles! Snow was getting a bit deep at parts. Gusty wind isn't helping. We came down Tilly Jane trail, snow free, and visited the big Tilly Jane cabin. A group came in with a key. You can reserve it 3 days in advance. First snow for me this year.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

2014.10.17-19 Havasu Falls to Colorado River

10/17 Friday, cloudy. I arrived at Phoenix Sky Harbor airport ~11pm the previous night, was picked up at 2:30am by the organizer. Got to the meeting spot at 2:45 as planned. 5 people were already there. As always with a large group (13 total), some were late, we didn't depart until 3:20am. In "my" car, are the old folks, other than a lady of my age, 3 others are older if not a decade older. The other 2 cars held kids in their 20s. A bathroom break, a long (6:30-7:30, not in the plan) breakfast at Seligman (the last town with regular services). Finally arrived at the trailhead (end of tribal road18, all paved), Hualapai Hilltop (elevation 5200') at 9am. Big parking lot next to a stock area where mules and their loads are gathered. Lots of cars already, lining both sides of the road. Long line in front of the toilet. Photos left and right. It's the first backpack trip for some of us. We started hiking down at 9:40. I was pretty tired by then, sitting in the middle seat for 5 hours. Good that we were slow.

Trail is easy, but long (10 mile). Sandy, lots of small rocks. Once a while, step aside for the packing animals. After the initial elevation drop to Hualapai Canyon, it's mostly flat, like walking in a river bed, until reaching the junction of Havasu Canyon (mile 6, an almost dried up spring shortly before that). Now more trees and sandy like on a beach, in a narrow canyon where Havasu Creek runs with a light blue-ish hue. Water is pretty clear. At mile 8 is Supai village. Beautiful setting. Wide. Lots of  little yellow daisy like flower and many giant morning glory like flower by the road with dust leaves. I don't see much agriculture here. I didn't see many local people, certainly no one walked. Plenty horses and mules, dogs too. Contrary to what I read online, people seem pretty friendly. Some animals are visibly starving,  but that's not the norm. At the tourist office, all visitors have to register. We have a group reservation of up to 15 people. Each one of us paid $81.40 ($35 entrance + $5 environment fee + $17/night + 10% tax) for a red ribbon (dates, name of the person who reserved, party size) on our wrists. They take credit cards, cash if not big bills. We checked in at ~1:20 pm. There's a cafe next door (opens 8-6, last order at 5:45, no backpack inside, flush toilet). If you are in town at non business hours, there's a water faucet, 2 toilets next to a small grocery store, or you can look for a proper toilet in the modern looking elementary school.

After the village, the canyon narrow again. Pretty soon, the little creek turns to the first waterfall, or rather the lower Navajo Falls. Walk to the big flat rock right next to the lip of the falling water, perfect for lunch. Continue a bit further, you'll get the view of the upper falls (don't walk down, no view). The sandy route continues, until you hear thunder. There, is the most stunning waterfall plunging to a blue pool, cascading down some terraces. I changed to swimsuit and dived in. Chilly. But once you are in the water, it's not bad. It took considerable time to change clothes without any cover (I used a big towel). Soon after is the mile long camping area, where you can pitch a tent anywhere,  even next to the creek (a big nono where I'm from). Spring water out of a faucet for drinking, a few compost toilet houses with plenty toilet paper, wood chips for odor (yes, it's clean and doesn't smell bad at all), a night light. However so many groups, no place for food waste and washing water, once awhile you get a whiff of unpleasant smell (food mixed with urine). At the entrance of the camping area, there's the depot for luggage (hauled in and out by mules) and two big garbage cans. Our next door is an organized group led by a studious young lady. She brought huge coolers and so much food, that she gave us pasta for the first night, and veggie burrito for the second! After setting up the tents, most of us walked to the end of the camping area, and down to Mooney Falls. You need both hands to go down. Was fun.

10/18 Saturday, partly sunny. 4 of us from the same car decided to head to Colorado River. We left at about 6:30am. Already enough light. Still we took flashlight, as we didn't know when we'd be able to make it back. Even though two of us had been here before, none walked pastes Beaver Falls, 2-3 miles down. We were told that we had to ford the creek 8 times, and water can be as high as our waist. After Mooney Falls, it was mostly flat. At the first couple of crossings, we changed shoes. Soon, putting on/off the boots became too much trouble. Wearing a pair of socks in water shoes is a good idea. Our progress is slow: taking too many photos. The creek is very pretty, as well as where it is: the canyon with straight walls. Some parts are wide, overgrown with blackberry type of bushes. At mile 3?, Beaver Falls is the prettiest of the endless water terraces: bigger and higher. We walked down to the water, and spent at least half an hour there. A bit further down is a deep blue pool, where 3 young men were diving. It took them awhile just to climb back on: a thick rope? chain? was permanently fastened to the cliff to aid them up.

Similar scenery continues. Less frequent creek crossing. All at most knee deep. We saw a family of sheep (we were told later they are not goats). I didn't see the only male with big horns, captured by Neil's camera. The scenery turns to more dramatic as we were close to Colorado Rive: the wall deepens, shinier. The sleepy creek at the camping area is now a rushing force. The three boys are returning from the river. They are fast. We met a group led by 3 guides, some of them were in their 60s, coming in from the river.
There's a visible line between the clear blue Havasu Creek, and the brown silty Colorado River. 3 rafts were moored there, as well as 2 boats. Lunch, nap, enough flat rock to rest and admire the view.

On the way back, we met the same group and no one else, not the sheep either. Less photos, so faster. We left at 1:10, and arrived at Mooney Falls at 4pm. I went in fully clothed. Good to wash away all the sand, mud and sweat. Yes, a bit chilly, but only when you go in. The force of the falls is too great to get under the falls. The kids of our group applauded as we came back one by one all wet. A heated discussion as whether to walk up or take the helicopter tomorrow (first come first server, 10-2pm, locals have priority). We all decided to get up at 6am.

Less cloudy. Not a bad starry sky, only a long strip, cut on both sides by the canyon walls.

10/19, Sunday, sunny. When we were in the village (~8am), already about a dozen lined up outside of the helicopter pad. Not a lot of shade once you are out of the narrow canyon (the last ~4 miles). Good that I filled up my water bottles, was able to give Debbie some. She only brought 1 litre of water for the 10 mile hike! Another boy later complained that he ran out of water. But we didn't see him (in the last group of 3) until 2pm in Seligman, where we waited in the Lilo restaurant. There's drink for sale at the parking lot. All 13 of us walked up. The possibility of walking up in the afternoon sun is enough of the deterrence of waiting for a helicopter ride.

Driving back was uneventful, we all fell asleep at some time. As we drove closer to Phoenix, the clouds got larger and darker. I saw Humphrey Peak, the tallest mountain in Arizona. Still a bit snow on the top. We stopped at Sunset Point rest area (I-17 exit 252) in time for sunset shots. Perfect dark red clouds, lightening occasionally, no rain yet. By the time we were in Phoenix, it was pouring. I was dropped off at the airport around 7:30. My flight was at 10:50pm - the very last flight. The security here is more strict, my peanut butter jar was deemed dangerous. I arrived at PDX ~1:30am Monday. Still a long way home, and I have an 8am meeting every Monday: work sucks!